How to care for a solid wood table (it’s less work than you think)

A solid wood table isn’t something you buy and forget. It isn’t fragile either. Most of the care comes down to a few easy habits. Here’s what people ask us most often: what to do, what to avoid, and when to get in touch.

One note first: we usually finish our table tops with a natural hard wax oil. Most of what follows applies to that kind of surface. Lacquered or varnished tops play by slightly different rules.

Everyday cleaning

Good news: it takes almost nothing.

• Wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth, then dry straight away with a dry one.
• For greasy marks, a few drops of plain, pH-neutral soap in water is enough.
• Microfibre works well. Scouring pads and rough cloths don’t.

Wood doesn’t mind getting wet. It minds staying wet. Wiping and drying beats never wiping at all.

Rings, stains and small accidents

The nice thing about an oiled surface is that damage stays near the surface and can be fixed locally.

• Water rings usually show up as a whitish mark and often fade on their own within a few days. If one stays, go over it very lightly with a fine sanding sponge (240–320 grit) along the grain and rub in a little oil.
• Wine, coffee, lemon: wipe acidic and colored spills straight away. On oak, tannins plus iron can leave dark marks, so don’t leave a wet metal tin sitting on the top.
• Scratches and dents: small scratches mostly disappear with oil. Dents can sometimes be lifted with a damp cloth and an iron, but ask us first if you’re not sure.

Heat

Hot pans, teapots and dishes shouldn’t go straight on the wood. Heat leaves white marks in an oiled finish, and a very hot base can scorch it. Use a trivet. Things that stay warm for hours, like a laptop charger, can leave a mark over time too.

Humidity and the seasons

Solid wood keeps moving. It swells when the air is humid and shrinks when it’s dry. That’s not a defect; that’s wood.

• In winter, heating dries the air. You might see a hairline gap at a glue line or a fine check in the top. These usually close up again in spring.
• Keep the table away from radiators, stoves and the direct blast of an air conditioner.
• Indoor humidity around 40–60% keeps both the wood and you comfortable.

On our tables the top is fixed to the steel frame in a way that lets it move. It isn’t clamped tight on purpose, so please don’t crank the screws down to make it “feel solid”.

Sunlight

Light changes the color of wood. Oak and ash darken towards honey; walnut lightens a little. Most of the change happens in the first months.

A vase, a runner or a stack of books left in one spot for a long time will leave its “shadow”. Move things around now and then and the color evens out.

Refreshing the oil

When the surface looks dry and dull, and water soaks in instead of beading up, it’s time. In a normal home that’s about once a year; a desk that sees heavy use may want it more often.

1. Clean the table and let it dry completely.
2. If needed, go over it very lightly with a 320-grit sanding sponge along the grain. Remove the dust.
3. Apply a small amount of hard wax oil in a thin coat with a lint-free cloth. Less is more.
4. Wait 10–20 minutes, then wipe off all the excess with a clean cloth. Nothing should look wet.
5. Let it cure as long as the maker recommends, usually overnight. Keep things off it until then.

We tell you in writing which product we used when we deliver. Sticking with the same one is the easiest route.

Important: rags soaked in oil can catch fire on their own. Soak them in water or lay them flat outside to dry. Never leave them balled up in a bin.

Things to avoid

• Silicone furniture sprays and “polishes”: they coat the surface and make the next oiling harder.
• Bleach, ammonia and alcohol-based glass cleaners.
• Leaving a wet sponge or cloth on the table.
• A plastic tablecloth left on for days; moisture gets trapped under it.
• Dragging the table. Lift it. Better for the joints and the floor.

When to call us

Get in touch before trying it yourself if you have:

• A deep burn, gouge or large stain.
• A crack that keeps growing instead of closing.
• A wobble, or anything loose where the wood meets the steel.

The best thing about solid wood is that it can be sanded back and refinished. Even years later, a top can be brought close to how it looked on day one. Send us a few photos and we’ll tell you what’s possible.